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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.